Posts Tagged ‘photographer’

Let’s talk about lens distortion. It happens to us all, even if we don’t realize it. It’s not complicated to fix, but it is a bit complicated to describe, so I will do my best to make it clear for you.

In barrel distortion the photo appears to bulge outwards from the center. In pincushion distortion the photo appears to shrink inwards towards the center. Barrel and pincushion distortion are common in photos that were taken with wide angle or zoom lenses. Can’t visualize it?

Here is your image distortion-free:

grid

Now here’s an example of what a barrel distortion would do to that:

barrel

And pincushion:

pincushion

But fear not — you can correct barrel and pincushion distortion. In ACDSee Pro 9 or Ultimate 9, you have the option of manual correction, or lens correction based on your lens profile. This time, I’m going to talk about automatic correction, which is based on your lens profile. What’s a lens profile? It means you can select the make, model, and lens of the camera used and receive a correction that is lens-specific. It corrects the distortion inherent to the lens used. The Lens Correction tool contains a database of camera makes, models, and their possible lenses. The possible lenses for the selected camera will be available for you to choose from the Lens drop-down menu, unless there is only one possible lens, in which case, that lens will be pre-selected.

You can also map the correction specific to your lens, (the lens profile), to your camera make, model, and lens combination. Mapping the lens profile will enable you to apply the correction to all images with the same camera-lens combination that you open in the Develop mode Lens Correction tool, should you choose.

To Automatically Correct Lens Distortion:

1. Open your image in Develop mode, and click the Geometry tab.

2. Open the Lens Correction group.

3. Select the Enable Lens Profile checkbox.

enable_lens_profile

4. Often, ACDSee detects the correct camera make and model. However, if it does not pre-populate, use the Make and Model drop-down menus to select the make and model of the camera used to take this particular photo.

5. Next, select the lens model from the Lens drop-down menu. If you’re not sure what the lens model is, you can refer to your EXIF information in the bottom right corner.

select_lens

It’s probably worth mentioning that the lens value displayed in the EXIF information may not be reliable in the case of third party lenses, as the camera itself may only recognize the third party lens as an ID number. If possible, recover the correct lens value and select it from the Lens drop-down menu.

The correction will occur instantly. Tip: To observe the difference, toggle the Show Original button in the bottom left corner.

show_original

Some results are fairly apparent, depending on the amount of distortion:

output_2ldvzE

Others, less so:

www.GIFCreator.me_yAuCVw

www.GIFCreator.me_DoOchp

(Don’t ask me what that is a photo of. Sea creatures? Confectionery?)

Now you have the option of saving this lens profile as a default for future use on other images with this camera make/model and lens combination. This will save you a ton of time if you’ve got a bazillion photos with the same camera/lens combo. As this function relies on EXIF data, this can mainly be performed with JPEG, DNG, RAW, and TIFF images.

To Save Your Lens Profile as a Default:

1. With your desired camera and lens combination selected, press the Map Default button.

2. Optional: Select the Auto-apply this mapped profile when entering Develop mode checkbox to apply the mapped default to future images upon entering Develop mode.

3. Press OK.

map_default

You can also manage your saved defaults, should you decide later on that you don’t want certain lens profiles anymore.

1. Press the Manage Defaults button in the Lens Correction group.

2. In the Manage Mapped Defaults dialog, you can select any profile from the list and delete it by pressing the Delete Mapped Default button.

3. Press OK.

And that’s that! Happy perfecting your images!

 

Here’s our latest video tutorial by one of ACDSee’s very own developers, Tony. Check out what he has to say on Adjustment Layers:

ACDSee has a range of lighting tools, allowing you to approach your adjustment from a variety of angles. The software is known for its patented lighting technology called Light EQ.

This technology makes it possible to adjust specific areas in images that are too dark or too light without affecting other areas. You can simultaneously lighten dark areas that are too dark and darken areas that are too bright. If the foreground subject is backlit, you can easily lighten that subject up without blowing out the background. For a quick adjustment, this technology can be found in Edit mode’s 1-Step lighting tool within the Light EQ tool, which makes it possible for users to merely open an image and have it intuitively improved automatically.

Light EQ technology also powers View mode’s Auto EQ. This tool allows for users to press the Auto EQ button and view their image with an automatic exposure boost, commitment-free. What does commitment-free mean? It means that you can see what your image would look like with responsive lighting correction without saving the correction or even entering Edit mode. This makes it easy to determine which images in your collection could benefit from adjustment as you browse, expediting your cataloging and organizing process.

This tutorial will discuss how to use Standard, one of the lighting tools found in Edit mode, powered by Light EQ. Standard works like a sound equalizer, but with light. You can adjust the brightness and contrast of different tone bands of the image (areas of relative brightness or darkness) independently using a slider for each tone band.

1-Original

To start, open an image that could use lighting correction or enhancement in Edit mode. Open the Light EQ tool. At the top of the Light EQ tool, choose the Standard tab.

1

A graph shows the amount of brightening or darkening applied throughout the tonal range of your image. The gray areas in the graph indicate suggested boundaries for adjustment to help you avoid clipping and loss of detail. They turn red to indicate where you have adjusted the sliders far enough to cause clipping.

There are two sets of sliders. The top is for brightening and the lower for darkening. The gradient on each slider indicates a tone band, which you may choose to darken or lighten by moving it up or down.

You can also make adjustments by left-clicking your mouse on the image and dragging upwards to brighten the dark areas. Conversely, you can right-click and drag down to darken bright areas.

However, before you get into doctoring things on a finer level, you may opt to simply press the Auto button. When you press the Auto button, Light EQ technology automatically analyzes the image and lightens or darkens accordingly. It may be that once you have pressed this, only a few minor tweaks, if any, are necessary.

2

As Auto worked so well with this image, we don’t need to adjust as many tone bands to make it perfect. You can adjust the number of tone bands to fine-tune the brightness ranges you desire to change by selecting a number from the # Tone Bands drop-down menu below the sliders. 

4

Play with the sliders until you find the perfect balance between dark and light.

3

We can see our before and after by pressing the Show Previous button at the bottom left of the image. 

Sunbeams in a forest

Sunbeams in a forest

 

Well here it is: The definitive aperture, shutter speed, and ISO guidance!

photography